Broome (Cape Leveque) to Perth!

12-14^th February, 2013:

It was off to Cape Leveque today, which is situated around 200 km’s north of Broome. For the first time this trip though, I had someone to ride with! Sean decided to get his Yamaha WR450F out and come for a blast north with me. First though, we needed to get his bike ready and do some basic maintenance before we set off. Once it all organised and ready to go, Sean was able to guide me through some backtracks before we got onto the main roads. Thankfully, the tar didn't last for too long and we were on the light sandy roads that have a hard packed underlying surface. This trip was also the first for the new Metzeler tyres that had been fitted a few days earlier. Thankfully I packed the bike light and left the majority of my gear back in Broome, because the tyres made the ride quite a handful until I got used to the new, crappy handling characteristics that the more road orientated tyres had caused. Since Sean’s bike only had an 8 litre tank, we refilled around halfway whilst there was still light. Though it wasn't too long before we were in the dark which made navigation and choice of lines a little more difficult, which may also be the reason why we ended up at ‘One Arm Point’, on the eastern side rather than the North West. Not to worry though, we spun around and found the turn off that we had accidently passed. Unfortunately though, the road to Cape Leveque has far deeper sand than the main road, and with headlights being the only guide we struggled to handle the tracks. With a bit of persistence though (and myself dropping the bike a few times) we made it there around 9 pm and organised a hut right on the coastal edge to shelter us for the night.

It wasn’t until morning that I got to view the coastline of Cape Leveque, which is quite spectacular. Sean and I decided to walk around the headland on low tide to the shop to grab some breaky and a cold drink before we had to put ourselves on the bike and through the sand again. With a good meal and a quick dip in off the cape we re-geared and jumped on the bikes. I think we can put our poor riding the night before down to the lack of light, because today there were no such dramas! We stopped in at Beagle Bay to check out the ‘Sacred Heart’ Church which has an interior littered with polished pearl shells, making it a truly unique church. Here, we also intended to refill our fuel tanks, but it turned out there were pump problems or a lack of fuel, or something anyways. Though I thought I could have made it back, we still had to divide the fuel into Sean’s bike which uses roughly the same as mine… it would be very close! To play it safe, Sean got hold of Simone and asked her to meet us along the road back with some fuel to get us home. I think we must have made it around 50km’s from Broome before we came across Simone, who along with the fuel had a few cold beverages for us too (Thanks!). Anyways, long story short, we refuelled and made it back to Broome in time for the Sunset where I managed a quick ride on Cable beach and the chance to capture some great pics.

On Thursday I planned to say goodbye and begin my journey south along the Western Australian coastline. But first, the bike needed a wash and some basic maintenance. Unfortunately, whilst trying to clean connections to the speedometer (which had decided to become a temperamental piece of s#&t) the headlight fell and stripped the wires from the low beam HID bulb. With a lack of replacements here in Broome, Sean managed to hard wire it back in and seal up the connections. Due to the late hour it was decided another night would be spent in Broome, along with another sunset and beers on Cable Beach!

Again, I am extremely grateful to Sean, Sarah, their mother and Simone for having me stay for those few nights, and providing me with a great feed both nights!

Cape Leveque

The Sacred Heart Church alter

Cable Beach Sunset

15^th – 17^th of February, 2013:

On the Friday I Left for port hedland, simply to go to the post office where I hoped to get a couple of packages (a replacement towel and a new backpack). Unfortunately only the towel had arrived at that point, but rather than stick around I had the mail redirected and continued on 50km’s to stay at a 24hr rest site. Unfortunately there is nothing really exciting to say, just a boring ride down the highway in the heat really.

The following day I hoped to make it into Millstream/Chichester National Park, or even to Karijini, but not before checking our ‘Red Dog’ country… that is Dampier and Karatha. With that done, some food supplies were sorted and a permit to ride on the Rio-Tinto road I made for the national parks. Given the road was graded only a week or two prior, it was in pretty good nick. Once around 100km’s in, the landscape become quite spectacular. With rolling green hills on one side and the raw rusty rock outcrops on the other. I made it into Millstream/Chichester NP without any trouble and went for a quick dip in ‘Python Pool’. Simultaneously though, a number of smaller storm systems were releasing rain in the distance. It wasn’t long before the clouds become to come closer and began converging on my position, so I made for a camp ground in the National Park. Due to the numerous floodways that already had a bit of water over them, the ever increasingly frequent and loud thunder, and the convoy of mine vehicles exciting the now large storm and heading back for town I thought it would be wise to do the same. It was either that or head directly into the storm and risk being flooded in… or worse, struck by lightning. Unfortunately I knew that the caravan parks were going to charge a small fortune like any mining based area, so I headed for a dingy caravan park in Dampier, which still cost $20 to stick up my tent!

The storm and rain never made it to the coastline thankfully, but I knew the roads to Karijini were going to be a struggle, so I set off early in the morning to assess the damage. I made it around 160km’s in before coming to a long flooded section with mine vehicles stranded on the opposite side. After walking through half of it (which would have been possible to cross) I came to a fast flowing section which had apparently cause a mine 4X4 to become bogged, with water flowing onto the bonnet! So that was a no go, and I cut across around 50m through the bush onto the road that runs parallel to the railway. The crossing here was far shorter and shallower, but after speaking to some workers that had travelled from the south there was no use continuing on. So that’s 600km’s, 30 litres of fuel, and a day and a half wasted. With nothing more to give I regrettably had to bypass Karijini, as well as the chance to replicate Mark and Sanne’s iconic photo from near Tom Price.

I travelled along the highway towards Exmouth, but ended up staying at a 24hr rest site (Barradale, a few hundred K’s from Exmouth). After passing a number of smaller storm systems (in close proximity) I should have known better than to stop here. Despite this I did, and to really risk it, I was lazy and didn’t peg or tie the tent down. It wasn’t until midnight that the storm hit… and bloody hell, it was a hell of a storm. It began with insanely strong wind that forced the red Pilbara sands inside, covering me, my mattress and other gear in it. Whilst leaning up against the left side of the tent that was copping the full force, attempting to keep it from completely folding over, the intensely heavy and icy-cold rain began. It wasn’t long before I found myself re-enacting the storm scene from ‘The Truman Show’ whilst envisaging some vengeful or wicked puppet master having some fun at my expense! The storm really played the part well, too. Soon I was drenched with my tent now resembling a little kiddies pool. I told myself that once the storm had passed, I would go lie on the bench outside until morning… But never assume that the storm is over. After a short lull, it returned with an only slightly decreased ferocity and determination to completely ruin my spirit. Again it was gone, and I at least had the sense (only because of regret and hindsight) to tie the tent down. The air was freezing now outside so I retreated back to my warm kiddies pool to lie in until morning.

Not too far south of Karatha

Python Pool

The outer edge of the storm that sent me back!

18^{th –} 19^th of February, 2013:

I can’t say it was the most restful or comfortable sleep I’ve had, but I managed a couple of hours of shut eye. In the morning I discovered that the rest stop was trying to compete for the title of the most fly populated region of Australia, coming a very close second to Cammoweal. Because of this, the flies kept me occupied after laying my things out to dry. Eventually though, I was back on the bike, and so excited to get to a beach in Exmouth to wash off and relax! It was once again a very hot day, and after grabbing a feed and hiring some snorkelling gear I headed for Turquoise Bay to enjoy the clear waters and fringing reefs. The waters are quite beautiful and scenic, but this far north, you can hardly say the waters are refreshing, being so warm. Despite this, it was great to stretch out off the bike and use some different muscle groups for once!

After swimming for a few hours, I headed down to Osprey bay to set up camp. The skies were fairly clear, though the distance clouds made me a little nervous… especially after the previous night’s experience! I wasn’t game to risk it again, so I went to town with every rope and rock I could use and find.

Luckily, the tent wasn’t challenged and I actually had a great night’s sleep. After looking at the remaining time I had left for the trip, as well as the bank balance, I’ve decided that I really need to get a move on. With the new tyres not allowing a great deal of ‘adventure’ riding here in Western Australia, I decided it will be one night stays would be allocated everywhere but the city, and maybe Esperance. Today however, I decided the bike was due for an oil change, or more honestly I wanted to lose a couple of kilos of baggage (being the excess oil). I found a workshop that allowed me to drain and dispose of the old stuff and following that sweat-sesh, I refuelled and headed to ‘Holeshot’ canyon on the way out of Exmouth. It was only a short ride, not even a 30km’s return trip, where afterwards I had a quick dip at the beach before making headway towards Point Quabba. I ended up getting there late in the arvo, only an hour or two before sunset. I’m really getting tired of backtracking these roads (especially after the efforts to get to Karijini). Because of this I stayed at ‘the blowholes’ which is essentially a tiny shack village that becomes populated during, well, other times of the year. The beach, whilst having cooler water was clogged with sea-weed and challenged you with shore breakers… It was therefore just a quick swim then before setting up camp!

Osprey Bay

Turquoise Bay

Exmouth Lighthouse

Osprey Bay Camp

Holeshot Canyon

Point Quabba Lighthouse

Whalebone Bay Camp

20^th - 23^nd of February, 2013:

Today I headed for Denham. With the weather still blisteringly hot I was again excited for a swim in the not so refreshing waters of the North-West… any water is better than nothing though. After organising some water in a town that relies on desalination and a couple of bites to eat I chose to check out Monkey Mia before coming back and setting up camp. Upon arrival I was greeted with an $8 dollar entrance fee. Given I was only planning on going for a dip (and that no dolphin feeding was occurring in the afternoon) I said ‘bugger that’ and spun around. Only a few hundred metres on my return trip I saw what I though was a relatively hard-packed track leading down to the beach. Being the bargain hunter I am, and extremely sweaty I turned off the sealed road and before I knew it I was down the embankment and stuck around 30m from the beach in deep, soft, powdery sand. It was at precisely this point that not only did I realise I should have coughed up those few dollars, but much worse, that I was very much like my old man… memories of him getting us lost in the Gloucester Buckets (mountains back home) for an entire day after removing ourselves from the beaten track began to re-emerge. After a quick (free) dip, I unloaded the bike completely, dropped the tyres pressures and struggled to just turn the bike around. I soon realised that no amount of momentum was going to get me back up the hill, so I resorted to getting the bike onto the shore of the beach. After much struggle, and losing both soles of my motorbike boots, it was there and loaded up. The next challenge was finding a place to get back to the main road… the only option being the Monkey Mia beach resort that I had so ‘sneakily’ avoided. Nevertheless, I made my way down, much to the amusement, but mostly disgust of the paying beach goer and resort guest. I managed to coax a fella to help me lift the bike up onto the resort footpath, where I flew out of the resort like a bat outa hell. Luckily, I wasn’t caught or charged the $8 either! Ya see, you don’t have to pay these stupid little fee’s… you just have to put yourself through some physical and mental anguish instead. It makes the reward that much greater anyways ;)

After passing through Denham, I set up camp in Whalebone Bay, around 25km’s outside of the township. For the first time since the painful storm, I didn’t bother with the tent’s fly, and let the breeze cool me down for the night. I figured it was a pretty safe bet with the town on desalinated water and all.

The risk payed off, and after a restful sleep I packed and set off for Kalbarri. Again, not the most interesting ride and with my new rules being “No sand riding” and “No unscheduled or non-researched detours” it was main road all the way. I had a quick look at the Ross-Graham gorge, though they haven’t received much rain out this way, so the river was intermittent, and water therefore still. It was so damn hot though I didn’t care, and dunked myself up to the neck, in the only slightly green tinged water. Despite the slimy subsurface, the water smelt alright anyways. After re-gearing I set off for ‘The Loop’ and ‘Natures Window’. The road to these spots is unsealed, a bit sandy and in some spots quite corrugated. The lack of grip sent the bike all over the place, and I really couldn’t be buggered playing around with tyre pressures in the heat, so I decided I’d turn around and head straight to Kalbarri. Before I could though, I had a bit of an encounter with a mid-sized roo who bolted straight into my side. Fortunately, I kept the bike up right, and after a bit of a roll the roo was up and away too.

After checking out the visitor centre in the Kalbarri township, a fellow motorcyclist rode by and after a double-take turned back to have a chat. As it turned out ‘Tyson’ was planning a little adventure from here to Estonia aboard his KTM Enduro 690R. Graciously, he offered me a place to stay for a night or two. Tyson is also quite the photographer, and a part of his trip is based on a sponsorship and buy-in sort of deal. To check it out head to:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/worldtraveller/the-adventure-photo-challenge-from-australia-to-es-0

I have to thank Tyson and the Cable family for letting me stay, the great meals, and also the chance to wash my smelly motorbike gear and clothes!

On the Saturday, I left Kalbarri and decided to check out ‘The Pinnacles’ before finding a place to camp. It’s a fairly good ride from Kalbarri to Geraldton, with some windy roads and nice landscapes. Though I didn’t stop to look at the coastal sites of Kalbarri National park, I think that the Pinnacles more than made up for it. It really looks out of place compared to the surrounding environment, almost artificial. After an hour or so there I left, and made it all the way to Lancelin where I finally found a caravan park with reasonable rates! For the first time this trip, I can honestly say it was a cold ride, and an even colder night. I also think it’s only the third or fourth time I have actually used my sleeping bag!

 Ross-Graham gorge

The Pinnacles

'Desert View'

24^th to the 25^th of February, 2013:

Because of the drop in temperature, I think I had the best and most restful sleep so far… in the tent that is. To go along with the cooler weather, today I set off for the short ride to Perth. Upon word from my brother, a free concert was being held down on Fremantle esplanade, with artists such as Ballpark music, Missy Higgins and best of all, the John Butler Trio. Unfortunately, due to delays and an endless supply of emotional hippy propaganda the trio didn’t get on stage until after 5pm, just as I set off. The traffic was grid-locked because of the event, and it took me ages to get out and back towards the airport where I’d meet up with my brother Mark whom had just flown in for his next mining shift.

Whilst catching up with Mark was short and even shorter for my brother Scott whom I surprised early in the morning (as he too set off for the flight to the mines), it’s always good to see a familiar face on this trip. I spent Monday riding around Perth, relaxing in Kings Park that overlooks the city, and getting a much needed replacement backpack. Early in the afternoon I organised some accommodation at a backpackers… Perth is by far the most expensive place so far, and because of that tonight will be the last night before I head off down towards Margaret River to once again camp!

A couple of pics from Kings Park:

Darwin to Broome!

3^rd – 4^th of February, 2013:

With the bike loaded I reluctantly don my riding gear and said goodbye. Since I had skipped Kakadu on the way up, it was the destination for the night. The highlight by far was the most north eastern tip (by road anyways) at a place called Ubirr. Ubirr contains some of the best preserved aboriginal art, not to mention the most spectacular lookout over Kakadu and Arnhem land… again the view was incredible! The recent rains had caused the entire flora to turn bright, almost fluorescent green which contrasted even more to the red and grey rock outcrops over the landscape. A short but intense period of rainfall was enough to drench me and also allow for some great pictures once up on the plateau. I left Ubirr and headed off to find a campsite just a bit further south of Jabiru. The place was deserted, but I was soon accompanied by a couple of Wild boar, and in the morning a few Dingoes (which woke me up/scared the shit out of me with their howling).

The next day I headed off before sunrise to try and beat at least some of the heat. Early on I stopped in Nourlangie Rock and sweated my arse off walking the tracks. Afterwards, I decided it was time to just get on and ride to Katherine and back to the gorge, which I had also skipped on my northward leg.

I didn’t realise at the time there was more than one campsite in Katherine Gorge National Park so I ended up staying at a caravan park. I think I needed a shower anyways, since I was the new hotspot for Australia’s population of flies. Once I was set up, and had a swim and a shower I headed off for a walk into southern parts of Katherine Gorge. For anyone thinking of heading there, take good footwear… my old thongs didn’t cut it and continued to break with increasing frequency. Despite this little annoyance, I continued down to the southern rockhole where a beautiful little waterfall was. The water was so clear, with a slight green tinge. I can’t say I ever been so tempted to jump in the water, judging by its position I’d doubt any crocs could get there anyways. I resisted the urge and soon a tour guide and a couple of other folk arrive and I managed to grab a lift on the return trip of the cruise. Not only did I get to see a lot more of the southern gorge, but it saved me from more exhaustion and sunburn! Once back at camp I decided I’d get dinner going. At the same time the local aboriginal community who look after the land, as well as some of the teachers and staff were having a big barbecue  I think both the chef and the CEO of Jawoyn Preston Lee took pity on my crappy meal and offered me a spot to join them. It couldn't have been a better meal, with the choice of crumbed barramundi, steak, and every other type of salad available… well, I went to town on it all! Thanks guys!

Ubirr.... absolutely amazing!

Overlooking Arnhem Land

Souther part of Katherine Gorge

Southern rockhole

Our curious visitor at the caravan park... a 2-3m python!

5^th of February, 2013:

I left Katherine early today, since it was a fair sized trip to Lake Argyle, just over the NT/WA border. The trip wasn’t overly exciting, though the landscape around Gregory National Park is quite impressive. I didn’t do any exploring as the main road cut through the park and provided quite good views. That and the +45°C temperatures urged me to keep on moving!

Once I finally arrived at lake argyle I stopped in to set up camp at a caravan park which has spectacular views over the lake, especially from the infinity pool! Though I could have bush camped it somewhere the weather persuaded me to stay and take advantage of the pool. Once set up an Austrian bloke by the name of Francis came over and we got talking. It turns out he met Mark and Sanne in India back in March during their round the world trip. Talk about a small world! Whilst here, I also needed to get started on organising some new tyres for the bike. In the future, I don’t think I’ll go cheap on the set, since the rear is almost bald along the centre. Either that or I just need to find some dirt!

Within Gregory National Park

Just outside lake argyle

Lake Argyle

The Infinity Pool!!!

6^th of February, 2013:

Today, I had two choices. Either take the highway towards Halls creek and view the Bungle Bungles on the way in Purnululu NP (which is apparently closed, despite having bugger all rainfall) or take Duncan road down the eastern side of lake Argyle towards Halls Creek. I went with the latter as it was 450km’s of pure dirt riding. The heat was pretty intense and became drier the further south I went. At the same time it super-heats the water that I carry, which isn’t the most refreshing beverage on the road. I did manage to cool off a bit once though, not by choice, but it happened. Coming into a creek crossing that has a concrete slab underneath, I gave the bike a few too many revs to get up and out of the washout preceding it… and as it turned out the surface is completely slimy. The bike went sliding out from under me, but luckily not over the edge. Just trying to lift the bike back up was a bit of a struggle, since the wheels just slid along the surface everytime I attempted to do so. Eventually though, after removing the top bag and water container, the bike was upright again and I was off, with only a slightly bent gear leaver. As the road got closer to Nicholson station, the landscape becomes quite flat and boring, and lasts for around 100km’s afterwards too. As you get closer to Halls Creek however, the dirt road winds through some spectacular ranges. After riding for what seemed eternity, I eventually came across a 24hr camp ground around 40km’s outside of Halls Creek, where I met Sean and Simone, who have been driving through the centre of Australia from Brisbane to Broome. Fortunately, they had a esky full of ice cold beer which they were more than generous with, and even cooked up some damper over the fire. Given their generosity, I think I’ll owe them a few beers when I make it too Broome myself!

Leaving Lake Argyle

Duncan Rd, no fuel, no people, just heat!

Around 50km's from Halls Creek

7^th of February, 2013:

I set off a little later than usual today, but took advantage of the freshwater spring to have a bit of a wash and also checked out saw pit gorge which was near the camp ground. The goal today, however, was to reach the infamous Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater. This meant refilling in Halls Creek before heading just out of town and turning off onto the Tanami Highway. The trip from here on basically contains horrible corrugations, kamikaze cows and numerous washouts. Unfortunately, after I made to the crater, I realised the front fender bag containing half of my tools had been jettisoned over the rough road. I back-tracked a little in the hope of finding it, but it was a 150km’s stretch from Halls Creek, which I wasn’t too keen to do four times. Hoping luck would be on my side, I decided I would keep an eye out tomorrow morning on the way back into town.

Wolfe creek crater itself, is 850m in diameter, and the second largest in the world from which meteorite fragments have been recovered. It only takes about a 5 minute walk to get up to the rim, where you can view the entire spectacle. I decided I’d walk down through the centre and around the ring back to where I started. For anyone who plans on going there, it’s not worth that walk. You are simply bombarded with heat and irritated by needle grass. Just go up to the rim and maybe up to one of the higher points of the rim… though a picture from the opposite side during sunset may well be worth it. After the hike, a couple of German (yes again, more germans) blokes in an old Hilux came buy, inspired, or maybe intrigued by the movie. Ironically, they had been having car trouble, and Wolfe Creek is where it decided to die…again. Fortunately for them and much to their relief, after letting the car cool down, it started again and they were off with no troubles.

I waited until sunset to set up the tent, so it would be a bit cooler. Eventually the temperature dropped a little, and in the far distance you could see a storm brewing, which produced an endless amount of lightning flashes. With a bit of luck though, it didn’t make its way near my camp.

8^th of February, 2013:

Today the plan was to get to either Geike Gorge, or Tunnel Creek NP. Along the way, around 40km’s from Fitzroy Crossing, I came across the same French touring cyclist by the name of Jean-Pierre Deguine who was leaving Darwin as I was riding in. We stopped and chatted for a while, both enjoying the rest… maybe him more than me. We talked about out plans and where we had been, and exchanged details as to keep in contact and follow each other’s adventures via our blogs. This poor bugger pushes himself to ride over 100km’s every day in the summer heat of the top end (he actually rode 180km’s the day before!). After seeing and talking to him, he instantly made me feel about 10°C cooler. With my sprits now lifted after comparing my struggle with his, I headed forward to Fitzroy Crossing to get the low down on the park conditions at the information centre. It turns out that whilst Geike Gorge is open, there are no camp grounds. And whilst tunnel creek had camp grounds it is ‘officially’ closed. Despite this I talked to some locals, and they thought I’d be alright. I skipped Geike and headed west to the tunnel creek turnoff on Leopold downs road. The National Park itself is around 100km’s in from the highway. Most of the ride is quite nice, and as it turned out the lightning I had seen the previous night was a product of the storm here in Fitzroy Crossing. Though there wasn’t a great deal of water on or surrounding the roads, I managed to get myself bogged up to the rear axle after taking the wrong line. Not to worry though… I unloaded a bit of gear and packed the trench full of rocks and I was out in no time, on an absolutely filthy bike. I promised myself, that if there was one more bog hole I’d turn around, not wanting to tempt fate. And as luck would have it, there was, only 10km in or so from the park entrance. I decided to head back, and camp in an old quarry around 15km’s from the highway and get some rest.

 

9^th of February, 2013:

The ride today was to be a quick and simple blatt to Broome, just highway riding. After stopping in and refilling at Willaire Roadhouse, I rode for a while before the rear end of the bike began to feel ‘funny’… almost a floating sensation. I pulled over, assuming once again it was my paranoia. But nope, a flat, again. I couldn’t believe it, after the gnarly rocky, corrugated roads I had been riding the last three days, I managed to cop one on the highway of all placed. It wasn’t the best timing either, being right in the heat of the day. Initially, to try and get a move on as soon a possible I attempted to seal what I thought would be a small leak or something with my blue goo. With that failing, I bit the bullet, removed the rear wheel and found that the super heavy duty tube in the rear was completely shredded. From the look of it, the bike shop that had replaced the rear tire in Townsville had had some trouble with the double bead locks and had crimped the tube, where it managed to give way over 6,000km’s later! It was possibly due to the heat as well. Anyways, I got on with the job and cleaned the mess the goo had made before inserting my only spare tube. With just the bead to go, a man who claimed to be king shit of this sorta work pulled over and proceeded to tell me why, how and which way I had gone wrong with the shredded tube… as if it was my fault. Despite his rambling I was pleased to have someone aid me with putting the bead of the tire back on… what a bloody mistake. ‘King shit’ managed to pinch my one and only spare tube whilst levering it on, and to make matters worse, this was only realised after ‘King shit’ had left! With some cars pulling over, either not having mobile reception or tire sealant, and some cars blatantly ignoring my waving arms (ps. Hope those pricks find themselves stranded in the heat soon!) I finally had a family pull over with a trailer and graciously give me and the bike into town to a caravan park. They wouldn’t accept any payment, and continued to give me advice on places to visit, tides and a local map of the area.

 A huge thanks to Terry and Febe for ending my 5 hour stint on the side of the highway!

A beautiful sunrise and start to a shit day...

Stuck in the heat!

Shredded tube.

Obviously, the tube has been put in wrong back in Townsville.

10^th of February, 2013:

With a bit of a rest and a shower, the next morning I headed out to try and get some supplies, such as replacement tools and something to fix the pinch. Unfortunately, being Sunday, most places were shut. I did however manage to pick up some of the basic tools from bunnings and scab a tube patch of an old bloke in the caravan park. Eventually the bike was back in riding form again, though it only had to get me around 3 km’s to the bike shop the next day.

Apart from the work on the bike, I enjoyed the view over Town Beach, and a quick dip. As planned earlier I also caught up with Sean and Simone, whom I had met a few days earlier just outside Halls Creek. With a few beers down (thanks again!) we headed to a small pub, with its own brewery and famous flavoured beers. They include the usuals such as your dark ales, pale ales, as well as lime, mango and even the brutal chilli beer! Well, that gives the throat a clean out! Whilst there, a nice seafood meal was enjoyed, followed by a few more beverages down on town beach, just to cap the night off!

Where I stayed for a couple of nights, Town Beach.

Just enjoying the beach for once!

Sean and Simone... They actually made it through Tunnel Creek and onto the Gibb River Road

11^th of February, 2013:

Feeling a little seedy from last night’s simple pleasures, or possibly the sample of chilli beer, I had to pack my gear up and head to the bike shop to check out a couple of sets of tires that had been ordered in. Unfortunately, the choice was between the knobby style Metzeler Karoo, or on the other extreme end of the spectrum, the Metzeler Tourance… a rather road orientated tire. Not wanting an aggressive knobby due to the amount of bitchumen ahead, and not able to mix and match front and rears, I had to get the tourances… bloody expensive friggin tires. Whilst they seem nice and smooth on the road, I can’t see any real sand riding to be had down the coast. And, for the cost they will want to get me all the way home! To limit the costs and what not, I removed the original tires myself, at least being able to use their pneumatic tire equipment, though I didn’t have the knowledge to take full advantage of it. Eventually though, the new rubber was on, and I got out of there, with an aching back pocket. I’d like to make it clear though, it wasn’t the shops fault, the price was actually in line with online stores, but they are just in general bloody expensive tires!

Afterwards, I met Sean and Simone again who allowed me to store my bike and gear at theirs, well at his sisters anyways, I think, whilst I got a bed at a backpackers sorted. Afterwards, we went for a drive to Cable beach for a short but incredible sunset, followed by an amazing barbeque prepared by Sean’s sister. It’s great to finally get some good meals into me!

Tomorrow’s plan though, is to ride to cape Leveque and the surrounds…. Before returning to Broome for another day or two.